A symptom tells you how the stove is misbehaving, not which part failed. These are the usual causes behind each one; the diagnosis at your home confirms which applies.
Gas Burner Clicks but Won't Light
One burner sparks but the flame doesn't catch, or catches only after several tries. The others work.
Likely causes
- Burner cap not seated flat on the base
- Burner ports clogged with food or cleaner
- Igniter electrode wet or dirty from a boil-over
- Igniter electrode cracked
- Gas flow restricted at that burner's valve
How we narrow it down: The cap and base are removed, cleaned and dried, then refitted. The spark is watched for strength and position, and the electrode checked for cracks. A cracked electrode or faulty valve is replaced.
No Burners Spark or Light
None of the burners click or light. If you can light them with a match, gas is reaching the stove and the problem is in the ignition system.
Likely causes
- Power off to the stove: breaker, outlet or plug
- Spark module failed
- Wiring from the module shorted by a spill
- Gas supply valve off
How we narrow it down: Power and gas supply are confirmed, then the spark module and its wiring are tested. The failed module or harness is replaced.
Igniter Keeps Clicking After the Burner Lights
The clicking continues after the flame is lit, or clicks with all knobs off.
Likely causes
- Spark switch at the knob stuck, often from a spill
- Moisture in the switch after cleaning
- Spark module failed
- Wiring shorted to ground
How we narrow it down: The stove is allowed to dry fully after cleaning. The switch at each knob is tested to find the stuck one, which is replaced. The module and wiring are checked if the switches are fine.
Yellow, Lazy or Uneven Flame
A burner flame that's yellow or orange, lifts off the burner, or is uneven around the ring. A healthy flame is blue with small, even peaks.
Likely causes
- Burner ports partly clogged
- Cap not seated evenly
- Wrong orifice for the gas type, as after a propane conversion
- Air shutter out of adjustment
How we narrow it down: The burner is cleaned and the cap seated. The orifice is checked for the gas type the stove runs on, and the air shutter adjusted where the design has one. A yellow flame produces carbon monoxide, so this is worth fixing.
Gas Smell from the StoveSafety
A smell of gas that doesn't clear when the burners are off, or a strong smell near the stove. Don't light anything or flip switches, and don't try to find the leak yourself. Leave the house and call CPS Energy or your gas provider from outside.
Likely causes
- Burner knob turned slightly on
- Loose or aging gas connector
- Valve or fitting leaking
- Burner not lighting while gas flows
How we narrow it down: Once the utility has cleared the site, every joint is leak-tested and the connector checked. Burner valves are checked for leaks. Any joint that's disturbed is leak-tested again before the stove is used.
Electric Coil or Glass-Top Element Not Heating
One element stays cold, heats only partly, or works intermittently.
Likely causes
- Coil element burned open
- Coil receptacle burned or loose
- Radiant element under the glass burned out
- Infinite switch failed
- Wiring at the element or switch burned
How we narrow it down: On coil tops, the element is swapped with a known-good one to see whether the element or the receptacle is at fault. On glass tops, the radiant element and switch are tested. Burned receptacles and wiring are replaced along with the failed part.
Element Stuck on High or Won't Adjust
An element heats fully no matter where the knob is set, or won't turn off.
Likely causes
- Infinite switch contacts welded
- Switch wiring shorted
- Control relay stuck on electronic models
How we narrow it down: The switch is tested at several settings. A switch with welded contacts is replaced. If the element won't turn off, turn off the breaker until the repair is done.
Cracked Glass Cooktop
A crack across the glass top, or a chip near an element. Stop using the cracked area: spills can reach the element and wiring underneath.
Likely causes
- Impact from a heavy pot or dropped item
- Thermal shock from cold liquid on hot glass
- Stress from a warped or uneven cooktop frame
How we narrow it down: Glass tops are replaced as a part where one is still available for the model. The elements underneath are checked for damage at the same time.
Oven Not Heating
The burners work but the oven below stays cold or barely warm.
Likely causes
- Oven igniter too weak on gas stoves
- Bake element burned open on electric stoves
- Oven temperature sensor failed
- Thermostat or control fault
- Gas safety valve failed
How we narrow it down: The igniter or bake element is tested, then the sensor and control. On gas stoves the igniter's current draw is measured, because a glowing igniter can still be too weak to open the valve.
Oven Temperature Off
The oven runs hotter or cooler than set.
Likely causes
- Oven sensor or thermostat bulb drifting
- Door gasket leaking
- Weak igniter or element
- Control relay sticking
How we narrow it down: An independent thermometer is used over several cycles. The sensor or thermostat is tested, the gasket inspected, and the offset adjusted where the parts check good.
Broiler Not Working
Bake works but broil doesn't, including on stoves with a broiler drawer under the oven.
Likely causes
- Broil element failed
- Broil burner or igniter failed on gas stoves
- Control or thermostat fault
How we narrow it down: The broil element or igniter is tested and the control output checked. The failed part is replaced.
Oven Door Won't Close or Seal
The oven door hangs unevenly, won't close flat or lets heat out.
Likely causes
- Hinge bent or broken
- Hinge spring broken
- Gasket torn or flattened
How we narrow it down: The door is removed and the hinges and springs inspected. The gasket is checked for gaps, and the worn parts replaced.
Stove Tips Forward When the Door Opens
The stove rocks or tips forward when weight is on the open oven door. The anti-tip bracket isn't engaged, which is a genuine safety risk, especially with children in the house.
Likely causes
- Anti-tip bracket missing
- Bracket installed but not engaged with the stove's rear foot
- Stove pulled out and pushed back without re-engaging
How we narrow it down: The bracket is checked and fitted or re-engaged. The stove is leveled and the bracket confirmed by gently tilting the stove forward.
Burning Smell at the Back, or Scorched Cord or OutletSafety
A burning smell from behind the stove, a scorched power cord, or a discolored or hot outlet. Switch off the stove's breaker and leave it off until it's inspected.
Likely causes
- Loose connection at the terminal block on the back of the stove
- Cord damaged by being pinched against the wall
- Outlet worn or loose
- Wrong cord for the house outlet
How we narrow it down: The terminal block, cord and outlet are inspected. A burned terminal block and cord are replaced. Outlet and wiring damage are for a licensed electrician.
Clock or Controls Dead, or Error Code
The clock is blank, controls don't respond or an error code appears.
Likely causes
- Control lock activated
- Keypad failed
- Control board failed
- Sensor fault triggering an error
How we narrow it down: A control lock is ruled out and any code read. The keypad and sensor are tested, and the board replaced if they check good.
Self-Clean Not Working or Door Stuck Locked
The self-clean cycle won't start, stops partway, or the door stays locked afterward.
Likely causes
- Door lock motor or switch failed
- Oven still hot, so the lock won't release
- Sensor or thermal fuse tripping at high temperature
How we narrow it down: The oven is allowed to cool fully, then the lock and sensors are tested. The failed part is replaced.
