A symptom tells you how the range is misbehaving, not which part failed. These are the usual causes behind each one; the diagnosis at your home confirms which applies.
One Burner Won't Light
A single burner sparks but won't catch, lights slowly or goes out. On sealed-burner and pro-style ranges, cap position and port cleanliness matter a great deal.
Likely causes
- Burner cap misaligned or cracked
- Ports clogged with food or cleaner
- Igniter electrode wet, dirty or cracked
- Low gas flow at that valve
How we narrow it down: The burner is removed, cleaned and dried and the cap seated. The spark is checked for strength and position, and the electrode for cracks. The failed igniter, cap or valve is replaced.
No Burners Spark, or Several Won't Light
None of the burners click or several won't light. If you can light them with a match, gas is reaching the range.
Likely causes
- Range lost power: breaker, outlet or plug
- Spark module failed
- Wiring harness shorted by a spill
- Gas supply valve off or low supply pressure
How we narrow it down: Power and gas supply are confirmed, then the spark module and harness are tested. The failed module or harness is replaced.
Igniter Keeps Clicking
The igniter clicks after the flame is lit, or clicks with all knobs off. On many pro-style ranges the igniter re-sparks automatically if the flame goes out, so clicking at a very low simmer can be normal.
Likely causes
- Spark switch stuck from a spill
- Moisture in a switch after cleaning
- Flame not reaching the igniter tip on auto-reignition burners
- Spark module failed
How we narrow it down: The range is allowed to dry, then each spark switch is tested. On auto-reignition burners, flame position is checked. The stuck switch or failed module is replaced.
Weak, Yellow or Uneven Flame
Flames are small, yellow or orange, lift off the burner, or one burner is noticeably weaker than the others.
Likely causes
- Ports partly clogged
- Cap seated unevenly
- Orifice wrong for the gas type after a propane or natural gas conversion
- Low gas supply pressure
- Air shutter out of adjustment
How we narrow it down: Burners are cleaned and caps seated. The orifices are checked for the gas type, and supply pressure is measured where the range allows. A yellow flame produces carbon monoxide and needs correcting.
Gas Smell from the RangeSafety
A persistent smell of gas near the range, or a smell with the burners off. Don't light anything or flip switches, and don't try to find the leak yourself. Leave the house and call CPS Energy or your gas provider from outside.
Likely causes
- Knob left slightly on
- Gas connector loose or aging
- Valve or regulator leaking
- Oven burner not lighting while gas flows
How we narrow it down: Once the utility has cleared the site, every joint is leak-tested and the connector and regulator checked. Burner and oven ignition are checked for prompt lighting. Any disturbed joint is leak-tested again before the range is used.
Element Not Heating
A coil, radiant or induction zone doesn't heat or heats only partly.
Likely causes
- Radiant or coil element burned out
- Infinite switch failed
- Wiring at the element burned
- Induction zone board or coil fault
How we narrow it down: The element and switch are tested; on induction ranges the zone board is checked and error codes read. The failed part is replaced.
Element Stuck on High or Won't Adjust
An element heats fully at any setting or won't switch off. Turn off the breaker if it won't switch off.
Likely causes
- Infinite switch contacts welded
- Control relay stuck on electronic models
- Wiring shorted
How we narrow it down: The switch or relay is tested at several settings and replaced. The wiring is checked for heat damage.
Oven Not Heating
The cooktop works but the oven won't heat. On a dual-fuel range the cooktop runs on gas and the oven on electricity, so the two halves are diagnosed separately.
Likely causes
- Weak oven igniter on gas ranges
- Bake or hidden element failed on electric and dual-fuel ranges
- Temperature sensor fault
- Control relay failed
- Thermal fuse tripped
How we narrow it down: The igniter or bake element is tested, then the sensor and control. On gas ovens the igniter's current draw is measured, because a glowing igniter can be too weak to open the valve.
Oven Temperature Wrong
Food burns or undercooks at the set temperature.
Likely causes
- Temperature sensor drifting
- Door gasket leaking
- Weak igniter or element
- Offset setting changed
How we narrow it down: An independent thermometer is used over several cycles. The sensor is tested, the gasket checked, and the offset adjusted where the parts check good.
One Cavity Not Working on a Double-Oven Range
On a range with two ovens, one heats normally and the other doesn't.
Likely causes
- Element or igniter for that cavity failed
- Sensor for that cavity failed
- Control relay for that cavity failed
- Door switch for that cavity faulty
How we narrow it down: The element or igniter, sensor and relay for the faulty cavity are tested. The failed part is replaced.
Oven Door Not Closing Evenly
The oven door sags, won't close flat or lets heat out. Pro-style range doors are heavy, and their hinges wear.
Likely causes
- Hinge worn or bent
- Hinge spring broken
- Gasket torn or flattened
- Door not seated on its hinges after cleaning
How we narrow it down: The door is removed and hinges inspected. Hinges are replaced in pairs and the gasket checked.
Self-Clean Problems or Door Locked
Self-clean won't start, stops partway, or the door stays locked afterward.
Likely causes
- Lock motor or switch failed
- Oven still too hot to unlock
- Sensor or thermal fuse tripping at high temperature
- Control fault
How we narrow it down: The oven is allowed to cool, then the lock, sensors and thermal fuse are tested. The failed part is replaced.
Display, Touch Controls or Error Code
The display is blank, controls don't respond, or an error code appears.
Likely causes
- Control lock activated
- Touch panel failed
- Control board failed
- Sensor fault triggering an error
How we narrow it down: A control lock is ruled out and any code read. The touch panel and sensor are tested, and the board replaced if they check good.
Range Not Level, or Tips When the Door Opens
Pans slide to one side, the oven bakes unevenly, or the range tips forward with weight on the open door.
Likely causes
- Leveling legs out of adjustment
- Anti-tip bracket missing or not engaged
- Floor settled or uneven
How we narrow it down: The range is leveled, and the anti-tip bracket checked and engaged. Slab floors can move slightly over the years, so a range that was level at installation may need adjusting.
Element Sparking or BlisteredSafety
A bake or broil element sparks, shows a bright spot or has blistered. Turn the range off at the control and the breaker.
Likely causes
- Element sheath cracked
- Terminal loose or burned
- Wiring behind the element damaged
How we narrow it down: The element, terminals and wiring are inspected. The element is replaced, and any burned terminal or wire repaired.
Convection Fan Not Running or Noisy
The convection fan doesn't turn or makes grinding noises.
Likely causes
- Fan motor bearings worn
- Blade loose or hitting its cover
- Convection element failed
- Control output failed
How we narrow it down: The fan is checked for rotation and noise, the motor tested, and the element checked on true-convection models. The failed part is replaced.
Tripping the Breaker or Burning Smell at the BackSafety
The range trips its breaker, or there's a burning smell from behind it. Switch off the breaker and leave it off.
Likely causes
- Element shorted to ground
- Terminal block or cord burned
- Wiring damaged by heat
- Worn breaker
How we narrow it down: The elements, terminal block and wiring are tested for shorts. Burned cords and terminal blocks are replaced. Breaker or house wiring problems are for a licensed electrician.
