LG front-load washers report problems with a short code on the display. The trouble is that the code tells you what the washer noticed, not necessarily which part failed. An OE code, for example, means the washer couldn't drain, and that could be a sock or a dead pump.
This guide covers the common codes, what each one means, and what you can check before calling anyone. Your owner's manual has the full list for your model, and wording can vary slightly between models, so treat the manual as the final word.
Before you troubleshoot any code
- •Write the code down, and note when in the cycle it appeared.
- •Power cycle the washer. Unplug it for a minute or turn off the breaker, then restart. Some codes are one-off events.
- •For anything involving water or the pump, unplug the washer before you start, and have towels and a shallow pan ready.
OE: drain error
The washer couldn't drain the water within the time it expected.
What to check: the drain pump filter behind the small panel at the bottom front is the first place to look, then the drain hose for kinks and the standpipe or laundry sink for a household clog. Our guide to a front-load washer that won't drain walks through emptying and cleaning the filter step by step. Also compare the drain hose with the installation diagram in the manual, since a hose pushed too far into the standpipe can cause drain trouble.
When it's a repair: if the filter, hose and standpipe are clear and the code returns, the drain pump or its wiring is the likely cause.
UE: unbalanced load
The washer detected that the load was off balance and couldn't correct it enough to spin safely. On many models a lowercase uE shows while the washer is still trying to redistribute the load, and a capital UE means it gave up, often leaving the clothes wet.
What to check:
- •The load itself. A single heavy item such as a bath mat, a rug or a pair of jeans, or a very small load, is hard to balance. Add a few similar items or split the load.
- •Bulky items such as comforters. Wash them alone, on the bulky or bedding cycle, and don't overload.
- •Whether the washer is level and all four feet are on the floor. Rock it diagonally. If it moves, adjust the feet and tighten the lock nuts.
- •Transit bolts. On a newly installed washer, make sure the shipping bolts were removed from the back.
When it's a repair: UE on normal, balanced loads, especially with loud thumping or a drum that sits low or moves loosely, can point to worn shock absorbers, a suspension problem or a motor sensor fault.
IE: water inlet error
The washer didn't fill to the expected level within the expected time.
What to check:
- •Both water supply valves behind the washer are fully open.
- •The fill hoses aren't kinked or crushed.
- •The inlet screens where the hoses connect to the washer aren't clogged. With San Antonio's hard water, this is a common cause. See our guide to cleaning washer inlet screens.
- •Household water pressure. If other taps are weak too, the problem may be the supply.
When it's a repair: if water reaches the washer at good pressure and the screens are clean, the washer's water inlet valve or the water level sensor may be faulty.
dE: door error
The washer can't confirm that the door is closed and locked. Some models show variants such as dE1 or dE2.
What to check:
- •Something caught in the door, such as clothing trapped in the gasket.
- •The door closes firmly and the latch isn't damaged or blocked with residue.
- •Power cycle the washer and try again.
When it's a repair: a door lock assembly or a door switch that has failed will cause repeated dE codes. Don't force the door open or try to bypass the lock.
LE: motor locked
The washer detected that the motor couldn't turn the drum as expected.
What to check:
- •Overloading. An overfull drum, especially with heavy, wet items, can trigger LE. Remove some of the load and restart.
- •Something jammed between the drum and the tub. With the washer unplugged, turn the drum by hand. It should turn smoothly.
- •Power cycle the washer.
When it's a repair: LE that returns on normal loads can point to the motor, its sensor or wiring, or the control. That needs a technician.
CL: not a fault
CL means the child lock is on. The controls won't respond until it's turned off, usually by pressing and holding a specific button or pair of buttons for a few seconds. The manual shows which ones.
When to call a technician
Call for service if:
- •The same code keeps returning after the checks above.
- •There's water leaking from the washer.
- •There's a burning smell, grinding or loud banging during spin.
- •The door won't unlock at the end of a cycle.
Our LG washer repair page covers LG front-loaders specifically, and our washer repair page explains what a visit involves.
Frequently asked questions
Can I clear an LG error code by unplugging the washer?
Unplugging resets the display, and a one-off code may not return. If the cause is still there, the code will come back.
Why does my LG washer show UE on every small load?
Very small loads are harder to balance than medium loads. Adding a couple of towels often solves it.
My LG washer has a code not listed here. What should I do?
Check the owner's manual or LG's support site for your model number. If it's still not clear, write down the code, the model number and the point in the cycle where it appears. A technician will want all three.