Gas cooktops and ranges are simple machines, and most burner problems have simple causes. A burner that won't light, or one that keeps clicking after it lights, is usually dirty, wet or reassembled slightly wrong after cleaning. Here's how to work through it safely, plus the signs that something needs professional attention.
Before you start
- •Turn all burner knobs off and let the grates and burners cool completely.
- •If you smell gas beyond a brief whiff when a burner lights, don't operate any switches or burners. Leave the house and call CPS Energy's gas emergency line or 911 from outside.
- •For cleaning, unplug the range or turn off its breaker. The igniters are electrically powered even on a gas range.
How a gas burner lights
When you turn a knob, a switch behind it sends power to a spark module, which makes every igniter on the cooktop click. At the same time, gas flows to the burner. The spark lights the gas at the burner ports, the flame spreads around the burner cap, and when you turn the knob past the light position, the clicking stops.
Almost every burner problem is a break somewhere in that sequence: the spark doesn't reach the gas, the gas doesn't reach the ports evenly, or the switch doesn't stop clicking.
Burner clicks but won't light
Check the burner cap
After cleaning, it's easy to put a burner cap back slightly off-center or on the wrong burner. A misaligned cap blocks the gas path or moves the ports away from the igniter. Lift each cap and set it back down, making sure it sits flat and centered. Caps are often different sizes, so match each one to its base.
Clean the burner ports
Spills and boil-overs clog the small ports around the burner head. With the cooktop cool and power off:
- Remove the cap and burner head if your model allows it.
- Wash them in warm, soapy water. Avoid soaking the igniter.
- Clear clogged ports with a straight pin or a straightened paper clip. Don't use a wooden toothpick, which can break off inside the port, and don't enlarge the holes.
- Dry everything completely before reassembling. Water in the burner can stop it lighting.
Clean the igniter
The igniter is the small white ceramic post with a metal tip next to each burner. Grease or food on it weakens the spark. Wipe it gently with a dry toothbrush or a cloth with a little rubbing alcohol. Be careful. Ceramic igniters crack easily.
Watch the spark
In a dim room, turn the knob to light and look at the igniter. You should see a bright, snapping spark jumping to the burner. A weak, orange spark, or no spark at that burner while the others spark, points to a cracked igniter, a damaged wire, or a fault in the spark module.
Burner keeps clicking after it lights
This is usually moisture. If you've just cleaned the cooktop or had a boil-over, water may have run down into the spark switches under the knobs or around the igniter.
- •Turn the burner off.
- •Remove the knobs and let the cooktop dry for several hours or overnight. On sealed cooktops, you can leave the power off while it dries.
- •Try again after it's completely dry.
If the clicking continues when everything is dry, or one burner clicks all the time even with the knobs off, a spark switch has likely failed. That needs a technician.
Flame looks wrong
A healthy natural gas flame is mostly blue, with even flames all the way around the burner.
- •Uneven flames or gaps usually mean clogged ports or a misplaced cap.
- •Yellow or orange flames, lifting flames, or flames with soot: a small flicker of orange is often dust burning off. A mainly yellow, lazy flame, or soot on pans, means combustion isn't right. Stop using that burner and have it checked. Poor combustion can produce carbon monoxide.
- •A very low flame on high, on one burner only, can be a partially blocked orifice or valve.
Make sure your home has working carbon monoxide alarms if you cook with gas.
If your cooktop is electric
Electric cooktops fail differently. On a coil cooktop, swap a dead element with a working one of the same size, with the power off and both elements cool. If the fault moves with the element, the element has failed. If it stays in the same position, the receptacle or the switch behind the knob is the problem. A radiant element under a glass top that won't heat, or won't turn off, needs a technician. If the glass itself is cracked, stop using the cooktop and turn off its breaker, because a crack can let spills reach live parts.
When to call a technician
Call for service if:
- •A burner still won't light after cleaning and reseating the cap.
- •One igniter doesn't spark, or all of them stop sparking.
- •Clicking continues after the cooktop is fully dry.
- •The flames are yellow, sooty or unusually weak.
- •You smell gas, after following the safety steps above.
Our cooktop repair and stove repair pages cover gas and electric units. If the oven below is also slow to heat, see our guide to a gas oven that's slow to heat or running off temperature.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use a burner that doesn't light automatically by lighting it with a match?
Many manuals describe how to light a burner manually during a power outage. Follow your manual's instructions exactly, and don't do it if you smell gas or if the burner has been flowing gas for a while unlit.
Why do all the igniters click when I turn on one burner?
That's normal on most gas cooktops. One spark module feeds all the igniters.
Is it safe to clean burner parts in the dishwasher?
Some manufacturers allow it for certain parts, and others don't, especially for coated or aluminum parts. Check your manual.