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Freezer

What a Technician Checks When an Upright Freezer Won't Freeze

Upright freezer not freezing? The checks run from room temperature, the door seal and loading to the compressor, fans, defrost parts and sealed system.

Mateo GarzaField technician at TrueFix San Antonio5 min read

With an upright freezer not freezing, where it sits and how it's loaded get checked before any part does, because heat and overloading can defeat a healthy freezer; after that come the compressor, the fans, the defrost system and, last, the sealed system. A thermometer reading taken over a day and a note of where frost is forming give the technician most of what they need to start.

Before the visit

  • •Model and serial number, usually on a label inside the cabinet or on the door frame.
  • •A real temperature. Leave an appliance thermometer in the middle of the freezer for a day.
  • •Where it sits. A garage, utility room or kitchen, and roughly how hot or cold that space gets.
  • •Frost. Heavy frost near the door, frost on the back panel, or none at all.
  • •Sounds. Whether you hear the compressor, a fan, or clicking.
  • •Access around the freezer and to its outlet.

Safe pre-checks:

  1. Confirm the outlet. Whirlpool's upright freezer power guide says to use a three-prong outlet, check for a tripped breaker or GFCI outlet, and not to use an extension cord.
  2. Check the door seal with a sheet of paper closed in the door. Whirlpool's freezer troubleshooting article says a paper that slides out with little resistance may mean a faulty gasket.
  3. Move food away from the vents at the back.

The checks, in the usual order

StepWhat's testedWhat it rules in or out
1Actual temperature and the control settingConfirms the problem and rules out a warm setting
2Room temperature, clearance and nearby heat sourcesA space outside the rated range can stop a healthy freezer from keeping up
3Door gasket, door alignment and how often it's openedAir leaks bring in warmth and moisture
4Recent loading and blocked ventsA large load of unfrozen food takes time to pull down
5Compressor and condenser fan running, and condenser cleanlinessRules out a freezer that can't shed heat
6Evaporator fan, on models with automatic defrostA cold coil with no fan leaves the cabinet warm
7Defrost heater, defrost sensor and controlA coil packed with ice can't cool the air
8The sealed systemConsidered last, once everything above checks out

Whirlpool's guide to an upright freezer that isn't freezing gives the limits behind steps 2 and 4: don't install the freezer where the temperature falls below 40°F or rises above 110°F, leave about 3 inches of space at the top and sides and 2 at the back, and add no more than 2 to 3 pounds of unfrozen food per cubic foot at a time. Its freezer article adds that some freezers have condenser coils inside the walls, which can't be cleaned, and that a faulty evaporator fan or defrost part can keep a freezer from staying cold.

Tools you may see

  • •Thermometer, to confirm the temperature in several spots.
  • •Multimeter, for the fan motor, defrost heater and defrost sensor, with the freezer unplugged.
  • •Clamp meter, to confirm the compressor is drawing normal current.
  • •Service test mode, on electronic models, to force a defrost or run a fan on command.

Questions you'll probably be asked

  • •Is the freezer in a garage, and how hot does that space get in summer?
  • •Did you recently add a large amount of unfrozen food?
  • •How often is the door opened, and does it close on its own?
  • •Is the freezer manual-defrost or automatic-defrost?
  • •Where is the frost: around the door, on the back panel, or nowhere?
  • •Is it plugged into a GFCI outlet or an extension cord?

What the findings usually mean

  • •Room or garage outside the rated range: the freezer may be working as designed, which is common in a San Antonio garage in summer.
  • •Gasket or door alignment: warm, humid air is getting in, often with heavy frost near the door.
  • •Condenser fan stopped or coil clogged: the freezer can't shed heat.
  • •Evaporator fan not running: cold stays at the coil instead of reaching the food.
  • •Coil packed with ice: a defrost heater, sensor or control problem.
  • •Everything checks out but it still won't pull down: the sealed system, covered in how a suspected refrigerant leak gets diagnosed.

Sources

Good to know: In a San Antonio garage, the room temperature check comes before any part is tested.

To have an upright freezer checked, call TrueFix San Antonio at (210) 401-3007 or see our freezer repair page.

Still Not Working? We Can Take a Look.

If the checks in this guide didn't fix it, a technician can find the fault at your home and give you a price before any work starts.

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